Approach by the Pecchus Glacier
and Rob set off up Pecchus. 8 days food and an early start
- they didn’t seem to want to go with Harry and Nev (now
feeling better) who went up the same way a bit later. H and Nev only
planned to reach the Moac
a blue and red 3 man tent we used as an camp on the
Pecchus glacier] on the first day. Bruce and Rob wanted to get
further on. Couldn’t see the point of having a knackering first day
when there was a good camp available, myself.
and Nev returned. Nev had had a bad attack of the sh*ts and vomiting at
the Moac camp, so ....
my first solid sh*t for a few days, so pronounced myself fit and this
morning Harry and I set off up the Pecchus. Got to the Moac after a very
bad trog. Resting every few minutes and feeling very weak. Found remains
of Austrian camp on top grass slope. Had a pog of corned beef and spud.
Felt very sick, sh*tting all night.
very bad. Harry decided to do a carry up while I stayed in camp. He went
up, turned round at 3.30. I spent all day laying about. Had bit of ready
meal - repeat performance of last night. Started snowing in the night.
and raining, layed in bed. Then water started flowing under the tent.
Got out and dug channels all round. Then Rob & Bruce appeared out of
the clag. They had got to upper plateau and climbed a peak. They went on
down to base camp. Cleared up and went down too. Stayed high and
scrambled down a gully, made a change. Got to base camp about 5. (It had
stopped raining when we left) Everything was really green and earthy
smelling - some crops were flattened. No dust. Atmosphere bad in base
camp. We had decided to go straight back up tomorrow.
got ready then decided not to go. It was just too much hassle to get the
food sorted. Cloudy in afternoon.
off nice and early. Both going well. Got to Moac. Then continued up with
heavy sacks, really knackered when we stopped at H’s food dump. Food
tins in complete chaos. Really hopeless not having man/day packs.
Feeling very cold and pissed off.
even worse this morning. Carried on up - left late - bad going. Reached
red bivi bag. Dumped spare rope - for some reason had taken 3 ropes, one
double, one single - cut double. Decided to go up left - hoping to find Austrian route. Much easier going.
Slogged up to A1 bivi on rocks with water nearby 16,650 feet [
5 075 m ]. Glacier
ahead level and clear, until final snow slope to upper plateau. Cold
up, had breakfast, puked it all up - in order. Decided to head down to
bring up Moac and more food. Descended right up close to rocks. Managed
to fall into crevasse up to shoulders. Harry gave me a hand to get out
and we roped up. Not good ascent route. Scrambled down moraine then left
crevasses etc. on old path. Met Bruce and Rob at Moac. They were just
getting ready to carry on up. When we told them the plan they decided to
come up with us in the morning. Then after further consideration,
bearing in mind the weather cycle which would mean we’d all get to the
foot of Koyo Zom as the bad spell set in, they decided to go back to
base camp and bring up a Vango
heavy 3 man tent] and more food. Then we’d all sit out
the bad spell high up prior to hopefully a 3 or 4 day spell of good
weather, with all four of us already high up. Also we could take the
Vango fly-sheet for a high camp on the glacier plateau - it should be
big enough for 4.
from base camp :- Ickbal's friend had arrived with a big piece of goat
meat - curry all round. Nev still had bad sh*ts. I was very annoyed to
hear that Nev and Colin had decided to go for a trip up the valley, but
Ickbal had refused permission till checked with some one a few miles up
the valley. Really pissed off with this because if they could walk up
the valley (and a day trip up the Chatiboi) they could certainly do a
bit of load carrying up the Pecchus, as just now this was vital. Felt
very much like saying f*ck the lot and going back to Chitral. Anyway
this was another reason for R & B to head down. The plan being that
all 4 of them would come up as R & B couldn’t carry 2 loads from Old
to New Moac sites - we’ll see what happens. Settled down for the
night, all of us trying to work out these plans, which weren’t
finalised until the next day.
up latish. Fixed plans and R & B set off down, meaning to return
with N & C next day. We set off with Moac and 6 days food. Guts bad
again - stain on C’s long Johns bears witness. Set off feeling bad at
11.30. Sacks not too bad. Just after first few snow pitches H announced
we only had 2000 feet [
600 m ]
to go - I thought we’d never make it - neither
of us relished the thought of a night out with only sleeping bags and no
other warm gear. Reached food dump - luckily only a few pounds there -
and set off up water course. After a very painful slog - not helped by a
bad dose of the sh*ts, but helped by following old foot prints - we got
to bivi sight at 7 o’clock, just as sun went in. Cloudy already so
very glad to be there - too long a day really - 3100 feet
950 m ]
(up) to 16,650 [
5 075 m ] - although the altitude increased as the barometer dropped. Tent went up
in place of bivi bag, and settled in for coming night - marred only by
nocturnal sh*ts. Little snow in night - lots of clag. Had attack of
nervous depression in the night - the usual kind, had a sh*t, two Codine
phosphate and 2 sleeping pills and I was OK again. Slept like a log
after that. Harry seems to be going well now, it was the other way round
the first time we came to this place. I hope Nev and Colin get their
ideas sorted out, we’ll have a good chance then !
late, weather claggy with intermittent snow. Decided to have a rest day.
Perhaps we could have done a carry up to the plateau before too much new
snow fall but didn’t have the heart. Hoped to get guts better so that
when (if!) the next good spell comes we can make a real try - it’ll be
the last chance. Fried up some mackerel for lunch - much better than
cold. Barometer still dropping slowly. 9 - 10 days food left - should be
plenty. A tent is a real luxury - or to tell the truth, a necessity in
this kind of area. Touch of n. d. again - very slight.
We were now all looking for a way up the Pecchus glacier.
This is what we had come for!